My goal was to reach the 7th stage of the Camino Francés (also named Camino de Santiago, The Way of St James), upright and smiling! There are 33 stages in this Camino, starting in St Jean Pied de Port in France (the Pied de Port is important as there are hundreds of locations that start with St Jean!) to Compostella de Santiago in Spain, roughly 800 km. 

The first 7 stages meant hiking for what turned out to be 174 kilometers: up and down mountains (the Pyrennes, for starters with 2,400 meters of elevation up and then down, that's the first stage 'baptism by fire'), then across hill and dale of the Spanish countryside (vineyards, olive orchards, rolling open fields) passing farms, villages, towns and cities, along with many other pilgrims who've trod this Way for millennium. 

Every pilgrim has their own reasons for walking the Way. My trusty guidebook (by John Brierley) was rich with information and encouragement, both for the Practical Way, and the Mystical Way. My reasons were a mix of both practical (could I actually walk 20+ km per day, day after day?) and mystical (calling my heart into a more present, attuned state). I trained, and I read, and I journaled in preparation. 

What I had ahead were many lessons in humility, and in experiencing grace.

1. Communicating in a different language 

I was humbled by trying to read/speak with my high school French (surprisingly, it's still there but my accent is atrocious = puzzled faces looking at me trying to parse together what was coming out of my mouth, and then kindly speaking in English!). And then switching from that 'French' to speak my Duolingo Spanish (maybe 20 words/phrases, most important being Gracias, Por Favor, Buenas Dias, Si and Té Nero). Let's just say there were a lot of hand gestures, nodding, smiling and Google Translate. My Grace here was always the good natured kindness and patience of the locals. 

2. Travel

The best laid plans are still prone to change. It was 2 solid travel days to get to the start, and 2 full days to get home at the end. Each of those days included several bookings of flights, trains, buses, shuttle, hotels and all the mapping to get from A to B. 

I did use a wonderful travel service (Camino Travel Service) who booked my rooms for my 11 nights on the path, as well as shipping my carry-on bag ahead each day. So grateful for that service, and that all of their plans did NOT change. And yes, I was that kind of pilgrim, carrying a day pack and walking straight to my hotel in each town (as opposed to the traditional pilgrim who carries everything on their back and at the end of each 6-8 hour day walking, wanders around town looking for a bed in an Auberge or dorm). My saving grace with all of this was my perseverance, and when that didn't work, to simply ask for help. Both were always there.

3. Time Alone

My introverted self was looking forward to doing this solo, 'I can do this'. Was that ever a lesson in humility! (Most of the time, I travel with my husband, who's very good at troubleshooting. However, he was 6 hours behind me, and I was not going to wake him up in the middle of the night with 'I can't get my email to work'.) 

I started out the first day in high spirits. Taking pictures (sheep, horses, views), passing other pilgrims in the climb with a ‘Buen Camino’. I met my soon-to-be walk mates, Lucy and Jim, on one of the hills! But for now, I was doing it solo, and just carried on up the road. Ahem, I missed a detour. I trudged up a long hill (about 1km), then looked back, and . . . there wasn't one pilgrim behind me. Ate a slice of humble pie and walked back down, found the detour (which was a difficult vertical loose-rock challenge, but shorter) and there were Lucy and Jim at the top. 

Lucy said "It's a little easier with poles" and I said, "Yes, I'm going to buy some tonight" and she said "I have an extra set, happy to give them to you". Wow, what grace! These kind friends walked and talked with me for the next 4 days, and I loved their company. So much for 'I can do this solo', and so grateful.

4. Health

As I mentioned, I did train for distance and hills, so was fairly confident I could get it done as long as my feet were okay. I alternated half way through each day trading my hiking boots with my Hoka runners. 3 layers of socks, and when needed, Compeed blister packs. 

What I didn't see coming was the head cold that started the night before day one. Should've worn a mask on the plane. I had brought Tylenol Sinus, but frankly, they didn't do much. Soon found out that you need a prescription for decongestants in France. As soon as we got to Roncesvalles (in Spain) I was eager for the pharmacy, but it was 3 km away and closed in 20 minutes at 3pm. The café server who told me this, gestured 'just a minute' and came back with a blister pack with 4 pills left in it. So kind, and so grateful . . . and then Jim scanned it and they were just Ibuprofen. Okay, another night sleeping sitting up.

The cold progressed quickly and by the 3rd day, I felt better and just had to deal with the symptoms. I called upon God through all of this, to keep me calm and keep perspective, and He did. 

5. Angels

I can't find a better word for them . . . all the kind strangers who helped. 

* My Aussie friend, Joe. We met as I was walking out of Pamplona, solo because I'd said goodbye to Lucy & Jim the night before (it was the end of their Camino). I was missing them, feeling a little sad. Joe was waiting for a light to change, and I asked if he could see the next Camino sign (usually a blue circle with yellow shell outline, but sometimes just a hand-painted yellow arrow). Ended up walking that 26k trek together, and he kindly made sure I got into my hotel in Puenta del Reine. Spent the next 5 days walking with him, a good pace, gentle conversation as we found our way. He met me at 6:15am on my last day to walk me to the bus station (pitch dark and Logrono is a big city). What a kind soul. Godspeed to Santiago, Joe!

* The bus driver (Logrono to San Sebastién) who insisted I go all the way to San Sebastién (rather than what looked shorter to me via Google), and then when we got there, gestured 'UP' so I'd know how to get to the train station. He was right!

* My Camino coaches back home (Laurie and Mardi especially, and several others too) who had my back, answered my questions day or night, always encouraging, finding the work-around and the positive.

* The train ticket agent who took the time to tell me how to get to the other local train station, and clearly wrote the name and location down for me. 'Go straight, go left, go right' . . . and then 'Google map it!' The next ticket agent who helped me figure out the 'ATM' for tickets . . . there was an ENGLISH button I'd missed!

* Most hotels were cosy, especially in smaller towns. There were two that really stood out: Hotel Roncesvalles, and Hotel Pujadas in Viana (had a bathtub!), and they were strategically timed to give just the pickup I needed.

There's much more I could ramble on about, but I think you can get the jist of my travels! Hard to know how to talk about this 'in a nutshell', other than lessons in humility, and welcoming grace!

Sandy

ps if you'd like to see pictures, I did post daily on Instagram: @sandycamino26